The accompanying diagram gives a simple and reasonably authentic pattern for a variety of clothing.  By adjusting the angles of the side seams and sleeves and adding gores of various sizes to the size and back, you can approximate anything from a Roman tunica to a Burgundian houppelande.

If this will be your first piece of "garb," consider a washable fabric in cotton or a cotton and polyester blend, or a wool and polyester blend.  Although an all-polyester fabric is easy to care for, it may look to "modern."  The color can range from, earth tones to vivid, bright colors, but be careful to avoid the "shrieking," florescent, modern hues.

Use 60-inch wide (150 cm) fabric, or sew two widths of 45-inch or 36-inch together.  (If you have to piece it, it is no more work to use a different color for each piece!)  Fold the fabric in quarters, with one set of folds at the top and one fold running the long was down the middle of what will become the front (see diagram).

Take the following the measurements being sure to add an additional ½-inch for seams:

1. Neck to floor, or wherever you plan to stop (plus 2-inches for hem).
2. Neck to waist.
3. Neck to widest part of chest.
4. ¼ waist measurement plus 1-inch ease or more, depending on style (plus ½-inch seam allowance).
5. ¼ chest measurement plus 1-inch ease or more, depending on style (plus ½-inch seam allowance).
6. 2-inch for armpit gusset.
7. As wide as your most comfortable shirt sleeves (plus ½-inch seam allowance).

The dotted lines suggest neck and sleeve lines.  Pick whichever seems closest to the period you are trying for.

Cut out the tunic.  When cutting out the neck opening, it is best to underestimate your head size and to cut too small at first.  Enlarge the opening little by little until it is the size you want.  Remember that a little cutting can make a big difference.

With the right sides (the outside of the fabric) together, sew up the side seams.  Put commercial bias tape around the neck opening so the fabric does not unravel when you put it on and take it off.  Hem the bottom.  Put on any trim you want.  Wear it over a turtleneck, pants and boots, or over a lighter weight version of the same tunic with narrower sleeves.

For most periods, the more cloth you use, the more upper-class the effect.  Also, very long floor-length skirts are easier to wear than very full.  Add gores at (A) and perhaps also to center back.  The closer you come to full circle, the better.  At that point, you can walk in a skirt four to five inches longer than your neck to floor measurement without picking up your skirt.

For men, the length can be anywhere from hip to ankle, depending on the period.  The line labeled "B" could be a side seam for men, and also for early women's dress.

If you would like to download a full page version of the tunic diagram, click here or on the drawing.

The above article and diagram are copyrighted © 1989 by The Society of Creative Anachronism, Inc. It is webbed under the Corporation's standing permission for SCA chapters to use it provided proper credit is given.